[Traditional Crafts] Indigo Kasuri: A Fabric Interwoven with the Rhythm of the Land
Kurume Kasuri Open Factory Program Report｜ Aizome Kasuri Kobo Takeshi Yamamura

What first surprises visitors at the indigo-dyeing workshop is the sheer number of repetitions.
“We dye each skein about forty times,” Kensuke explains matter-of-factly.
A skein is a bundle of thread measuring roughly 140 meters in length. Each skein is dipped into a vat of indigo, wrung out, struck lightly to introduce air, and then dried in the sun. This cycle is repeated again and again, allowing the color to develop gradually.
Only about ten rounds of dyeing can be done in a single day.
“By layering lighter shades over and over, you end up with a deep, lustrous indigo,” says Kensuke.
At the Yamamuras’ workshop, it takes at least four days to complete the dyeing of a single skein. 
Because the warp and weft threads are dyed on different days, the dyeing process alone takes no less than one week.
Whether aiming for lighter or darker tones, the number of dyeings remains the same. By building up the color little by little, the threads develop a rich sheen and become more resistant to fading. Here, the Yamamuras choose certainty over efficiency.

Kasuri is created using a pre-dyeing technique.
Sections of the yarn where patterns are intended to be are tightly bound with thread so that the dye cannot penetrate those areas.
After the dyeing is complete, each of those binding threads is carefully removed one by one, and the hidden pattern slowly begins to appear.
When the patterns of the warp and weft align perfectly, the intended design emerges.
Yet the slight misalignments that occur during weaving sometimes create a soft blur, adding depth and character to the pattern. Calculation and coincidence: Kasuri is crafted in the space between the two.
 

In winter, a fire is lit beneath the indigo vats.
The fuel used is rōkasu, the residue left after extracting wax from the berries of the Japanese wax tree. Once lit, it burns steadily for nearly twenty-four hours. 
The vats are kept at around 25°C throughout the year.
Managing the indigo as it ferments is one of the most demanding parts of the process.
“This is how it has always been done,” Kensuke says quietly.
While the vats could be heated electrically, the workshop continues to use traditional methods. Part of the reason is historical: during the Edo period, the Kurume Domain encouraged the cultivation of Japanese wax trees. Behind each piece of kasuri lies a cycle of local resources.

Inside the vats, the indigo appears brown. Yet the moment the yarn is lifted out and exposed to air, it gradually turns blue before your eyes.
The color of indigo is the result of an oxidation reaction triggered by contact with air.
After being lifted from the vat, the dyed yarn is wrung out and struck against the ground. This step sends air deep into the fibers, helping to eliminate unevenness in color and giving the yarn a soft finish.
The dye bath itself is cultivated from fermented indigo leaves known as sukumo, combined with lye, shell lime, and wheat bran. The indigo fermentation process takes about one week in summer and around two weeks in winter. The vats are stirred daily and carefully monitored to keep the microorganisms in balance.
“Indigo is a living thing,” Kensuke says.
In these words lies the quiet understanding that comes from years of working closely with the dye.

The atmosphere in the Yamamuras’ workshop feels warm, like standing in a patch of sunlight.
Yet beneath that calm lies a firm resolve.
At a time when the industry was largely dependent on wholesaler distribution, Takeshi chose a different path. He decided to show his pieces directly to customers.
By opening the workshop and welcoming visitors to see the process, reactions gradually changed. Fabrics once dismissed with a curt “That’s expensive” began to be met with “Now, I see why.” Moments like that became a source of encouragement, driving Yamamura to continue refining his craft.
To preserve tradition while also changing how it is expressed and shared and to move forward with conviction in what one believes—this quiet spirit of innovation forms the core of the work at Aizome Kasuri Kobo Takeshi Yamamura.
 

The three members of the family dye, weave, and finish the textiles together.
At a time when specialization has become the norm, they continue to carry out every step of the process with their own hands.
Indigo textiles grow clearer with each washing and more familiar with every use.
Perhaps indigo is not simply providing the color, but transforming the passage of time flowing through this land into the form of kasuri.
The indigo kasuri created by the Yamamura family continues to breathe quietly today.

 

    [Traditional Crafts] Open Factory TOP