[Traditional Crafts]Refining the Character of the Region through Dyeing and Weaving
Kurume Kasuri Open Factory Program Report｜Nomura Orimono

A visit to Nomura Orimono begins not with weaving, but with the dyeing process.
The goal is to achieve a fabric with perfectly uniform color after it has been woven. According to Shutaro Nomura, the president of the company, how well the finished product comes out depends largely on how carefully the threads are prepared at the dyeing stage.
The dyeing is overseen by Mr. Nomura himself.
His eye misses none of the subtle variations in shade that may appear in the thread.
From the blend of dyes to temperature, pressure, and water volume, each condition is carefully adjusted to achieve the ideal color. Even slight changes can affect the final result, which is why daily repetition and years of experience directly shape the quality of the fabric.
Creating color, assessing the condition of the thread, and preparing it for the next stage, Mr. Nomura continues to work on the floor, guided by the belief that the precision of the dyeing ultimately determines the quality of the finished weave.

Kurume Kasuri has long been an industry based on a specialized division of labor. 
At Nomura Orimono, tying of the thread is outsourced to specialist artisans. Based on the design, the threads are carefully arranged, and dedicated artisans tie off sections of the warp and weft threads with precise bindings.
Once the tied threads return to the workshop, all subsequent steps are carried out in-house.
Dyeing, untying, starching, sun-drying, preparing both the warp and weft threads for weaving, and finally the weaving itself—each artisan plays their own role in this series of processes, working as a team to improve quality.
No single person can create a finished piece of fabric alone. 
Each step requires anticipating the next and passing along the work with careful communication, much like handing off a baton in a relay. It is this close cooperation that makes consistently high-quality kasuri possible. 
Each individual takes responsibility as a professional, and this environment nurtures both skilled artisans and the character of the production region itself.

 

At the heart of Mr. Nomura’s philosophy are the words of his grandfather:
“A weaving house proves its worth by the fabric it produces and sells.”
Even when orders came to a halt during the COVID-19 pandemic, Nomura Orimono chose to keep the factory open. 
While it would have been possible to suspend operations with the help of government subsidies, stopping the machines would have thrown them out of tune, and there was a risk that the artisans might even leave the region. Instead, the workshop continued weaving while maintaining strict infection control measures.
When fabric shortages emerged after the pandemic, word began to spread: “If you go to Nomura, they’ll have it.” That reputation led to new trust and new relationships.
The act of simply continuing to weave was itself a way of protecting the entire production region.
 

Nomura Orimono’s signature design is the Hanabishi Kōshi, a lattice pattern inspired by the hanabishi, a diamond made of flower petals.
Long cherished as a classic design, it continues to retain a fresh, delicate charm.
While honoring these kinds of timeless patterns, Nomura Orimono also creates around sixty new designs every year. 
By carefully layering patterns and colors and weaving with meticulous precision, Nomura Orimono has cultivated a distinct aesthetic of its own.
When expressing gradients, for example, threads of adjacent colors are woven together to create a natural transition.
Even fabrics that appear solid at first glance often contain multiple hues, giving them a subtle sense of depth.
Each single piece of fabric is the combination of layers of colors and weaving techniques.
It is this painstaking process that lies at the heart of Nomura Orimono’s craftsmanship.

During the tour, visitors can observe the entire process up close—from warping to dyeing and finally weaving.
Although the textiles are machine-woven using chemical dyes, behind the process lies an accumulation of countless careful adjustments and skilled hands.
Each thread is examined, and even the slightest variations are carefully corrected.
This quiet succession of precise work ultimately determines how the finished product will look.
Nomura Orimono’s kasuri possesses a certain dignified presence.
Its calm, refined weave can be seen as the crystallization of focused craftsmanship.

Each single piece of fabric is the combination of layers of colors and weaving techniques.
It is this painstaking process that lies at the heart of Nomura Orimono’s craftsmanship.
Now marking its 125th anniversary, the workshop has begun some new initiatives, including the launch of the brand Nomura Cotton-Organic. Building on the techniques and knowledge cultivated over generations, this marks an attempt to open up new possibilities for Kurume Kasuri within the realm of modern life.
Rather than simply preserving tradition, Nomura Orimono aims to shape the future while keeping an eye on the present. This forward-looking attitude is sure to define the Nomura Orimono’s next chapter.
 

“As someone involved in making things, I’m still learning what it is we should ultimately strive for.
Within this system of specialization, we aim to produce fabric that is consistent and high quality. At the same time, I hope we can build relationships that are truly fifty-fifty, no matter what a person’s role is in the process.”
These are the words of Mr. Nomura.
His insatiable curiosity and sincere approach give value to every piece that comes off the loom. Fine weaving is born from the steady accumulation of skill and dedication to the craft.
Standing quietly in the workshop, his words begin to resonate.
Behind each dignified piece of fabric lies a long history of trust built between people.

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